The Kinabatangan

Today we have to pack again because after breakfast we are moving to the Sukau Greenview Resort, which is located at the Kinabatangan River.

Several of us experience regular power outages, which isn't surprising, since the air conditioners are all preset to a target temperature of 17°C, which can obviously never be reached, especially when outside temperatures reach 35°C. So, the air conditioners are always fighting at maximum power. I set mine to a target temperature of 24°C, which it quickly reaches and then remains almost whisper-quiet. Quite impressive for a bungalow structure exposed to the blazing sun.

Upon arrival, we first choose our mud boots for the upcoming jungle hikes and soon set off. Forrest had already prepared us over the past few days for how strenuous and uncomfortable it would be, as with every step we would sink into the mud, only to then free ourselves with a squelching sound for the next step. And all of this in the correspondingly humid weather, surrounded by mosquitoes. However, we hardly noticed any of that, as it hadn't rained for days. I was glad about that. I also had virtually no problems with mosquitoes, thanks to Deet^© – I discovered this for myself ten years ago on my trip to Fiji. The trick lies in the correct order and combination of applying sunscreen and mosquito repellent.

All I can say about the subsequent lunch is that it's unfortunately prophetic: While the food has been pretty unremarkable over the past few days, at Sukau Greenview, it's downright awful: chicken served with broken bones and noodles that seem to have been refried for the fifth time. James and I, in our desperation, compensate with more and more chili, but more on that later 🌶️

In the afternoon we have our first river trip across the Kinabatangan. We see several groups of pig-tailed macaques, including one that is just about to cross the branch we are currently traveling through. We can see how, for example, heavier members of the group help the lighter ones by using their weight to push down the branch, making the jump easier for the lighter one. We feel very sorry for one of the group; he seems to have an ulcer on his testicles, which has made his scrotum about the size of a basketball, and he has to hold it with his hands while climbing to avoid pinching it. I don't want to know how painful the jump to the other side must have been for him.

Towards the end, the weather takes a turn, and even though the boatman tries his best, we can't make it back dry. We're so wet when we get back, it's hilarious. Forrest has a fit of laughter ⛈️😂 I also quite like getting a nice rain shower in such warm weather. It shows us that, despite everything, we still don't have control over nature, and I think we need that sometimes...