Author: Tina

Since we're changing hotels today, we have to check out, so I get up early to enjoy the pool first. A monitor lizard keeps me company. They come several times a day, take a dip to cool off, and then disappear again.
I find it exciting and watch it curiously as it swims only two meters away from me.

Later, we, who arrived the day before the tour's start, are taken to Sepilok, where we stay for three nights. I have a nice, large room and a huge bathroom. It's nicely air-conditioned. Important, because we're expecting temperatures around 32-34°C! After we've settled in, we have some spare time until we meet up with Forrest and Eryanto, who give us an overview of what to expect over the next few days. This is also where we meet the other participants for the first time.

Afterwards we celebrate our First Supper^⛧ – we can get to know each other better. As I expected, given the mix of people someone like Forrest Valkai attracts for a trip like this, everyone seems really nice 😊 This expectation was, of course, a decisive factor in booking the trip. Of course, I had been a little concerned beforehand about the legal situation in Malaysia.^{💀🏳️‍🌈}. The reason I ultimately decided to go for it was that Sharia is “only” applied to Muslims there^☪and also that Borneo is a bit more touristy, and that I would stay with the group most of the time.
Of course, I recognize that the situation for Muslim locals affected is precarious.
Ultimately, however, I felt comfortable, and the interactions I had with locals outside of the group were positive. I found the entire time there much more pleasant than my experience at Istanbul Airport, especially at the gate and on the plane to Düsseldorf two years earlier, where there was an unexpectedly high level of aggression in the air and I felt truly unsafe.

^⛧Was ok (no wonder)
^💀LGBT rights: Malaysia women caned for attempting to have lesbian sex
^{🏳️‍🌈}LGBTQ rights in Malaysia (Wikipedia)
^☪ Freedom of religion in Malaysia (Wikipedia)

Our day begins before breakfast with a morning walk at the Rainforest Discovery Center. There, artificial elevated walking trails have been built through the rainforest in the style of old railway bridges, allowing tourists to enjoy nature without disturbing it too much. And, of course, to enjoy a view that simply wouldn't be possible from the ground.

My camera fogs up with excitement almost as soon as we start. The shots from the first half hour are therefore… problematic. Wiping the lens isn't even long enough to lift the camera, aim at a subject, and press the shutter. But eventually, it clears up. And it should be noted here that the trip has once again demonstrated how slim my chances of survival would be without technology. While our guide and some of the other participants spot all sorts of animals in no time, I just stare at green leaves, even after I've seen where everyone else is looking. But eventually, I do spot something…

After the morning walk, it's off to breakfast and then to the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary, a private sanctuary for proboscis monkeys. And yes, with their noses, I can hardly look at them and take them seriously; they look kind of funny. But I'm also impressed to see them later bathing with the younger ones, and I think you can clearly see how much fun and playfulness they're having.

In addition to proboscis monkeys, we also see the silvery langur, a banana squirrel and a mudskipper.

We also take a group photo here.

In the evening, we return to the Rainforest Discovery Center, this time for a night walk. Here we see millipedes (Platyrhacidae), which are slightly larger than the ones we see at home. Scorpions and giant spiders are part of the nightlife, as is a giant flying squirrel (Taguan). The Sunda slow loris, which we see, is the only venomous primate species. Their venom can be life-threatening even to humans, but fortunately, they move rather leisurely. We find a small bat on a branch, protecting itself from predators by behaving like a leaf in the wind.
Of course, I don't use a flash there, which has a corresponding impact on the image quality.

Afterwards, we have dinner and a brief discussion of the next day's program. I copy the pictures, recharge my batteries, and then I'm off to bed pretty soon. A beautiful day 😊🦇

We visit the orangutan rehabilitation center. There's a central feeding platform, surrounded by spectator stands behind mirrored glass panels to prevent us from being directly seen. This is how the center is financed and gives us insight into the behavior of these impressive animals. To allow them access from the surrounding forests, ropes are stretched from the trees to the platform, which they climb up to, just in time for feeding time. The feeder is careful not to make eye contact, but still assesses the condition of the arriving orangutans. After all, they shouldn't develop trust in us humans, because unfortunately, they are still being mercilessly poached. I enjoy the playfulness of the younger ones and the serenity of the slightly older ones.

There is also a second feeding station, which is located a little further away in the forest, where a different crowd (of orangutans) comes by to eat.

Afterwards we visit the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre, which is dedicated to the conservation of the sun bear.

For dinner today, we're going to a restaurant near our accommodation. It's a bit loud at first, as they're also having karaoke, but it calms down after a while. What I mostly remember is that at some point, there was apparently a fight between two geckos on the ceiling, and the next moment, the two of them plopped into my half-full glass and disappeared in a flash.

Today we have to pack again because after breakfast we are moving to the Sukau Greenview Resort, which is located at the Kinabatangan River.

Several of us experience regular power outages, which isn't surprising, since the air conditioners are all preset to a target temperature of 17°C, which can obviously never be reached, especially when outside temperatures reach 35°C. So, the air conditioners are always fighting at maximum power. I set mine to a target temperature of 24°C, which it quickly reaches and then remains almost whisper-quiet. Quite impressive for a bungalow structure exposed to the blazing sun.

Upon arrival, we first choose our mud boots for the upcoming jungle hikes and soon set off. Forrest had already prepared us over the past few days for how strenuous and uncomfortable it would be, as with every step we would sink into the mud, only to then free ourselves with a squelching sound for the next step. And all of this in the correspondingly humid weather, surrounded by mosquitoes. However, we hardly noticed any of that, as it hadn't rained for days. I was glad about that. I also had virtually no problems with mosquitoes, thanks to Deet^© – I discovered this for myself ten years ago on my trip to Fiji. The trick lies in the correct order and combination of applying sunscreen and mosquito repellent.

All I can say about the subsequent lunch is that it's unfortunately prophetic: While the food has been pretty unremarkable over the past few days, at Sukau Greenview, it's downright awful: chicken served with broken bones and noodles that seem to have been refried for the fifth time. James and I, in our desperation, compensate with more and more chili, but more on that later 🌶️

In the afternoon we have our first river trip across the Kinabatangan. We see several groups of pig-tailed macaques, including one that is just about to cross the branch we are currently traveling through. We can see how, for example, heavier members of the group help the lighter ones by using their weight to push down the branch, making the jump easier for the lighter one. We feel very sorry for one of the group; he seems to have an ulcer on his testicles, which has made his scrotum about the size of a basketball, and he has to hold it with his hands while climbing to avoid pinching it. I don't want to know how painful the jump to the other side must have been for him.

Towards the end, the weather takes a turn, and even though the boatman tries his best, we can't make it back dry. We're so wet when we get back, it's hilarious. Forrest has a fit of laughter ⛈️😂 I also quite like getting a nice rain shower in such warm weather. It shows us that, despite everything, we still don't have control over nature, and I think we need that sometimes...